TEXTILE FINISHES

TEXTILE FINISHES:

• In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finished textile or clothing.
• Some finishing techniques such as bleaching and dyeing are applied to yarn before it is woven while others are applied to the grey cloth directly after it is woven or knitted.
• Some finishing techniques, such as fulling, have been in use with hand-weaving for centuries; others, such as mercerisation, are byproducts of the Industrial Revolution    

FINISHING PROCESS:(COTTON):  

• Purification and preliminary processes:

          The grey cloth,woven cotton fabric in its loom-state, not only contains impurities, including warp size, but requires further treatment in order to develop its full textile potential. Furthermore, it may receive considerable added value by applying one or more finishing processes.  

• SINGEING: 

           Singeing is designed to burn off the surface fibres from the fabric to produce smoothness. The fabric passes over brushes to raise the fibres, then passes over a plate heated by gas flames.

• DESIZING:

           Depending on the size that has been used, the cloth may be steeped in a dilute acid and then rinsed, or enzymes may be used to break down the size.

• SCOURING:

Scouring, is a chemical washing process carried out on cotton fabric to remove natural wax and non-fibrous impurities (e.g. the remains of seed fragments) from the fibres and any added soiling or dirt. Scouring is usually carried in iron vessels called kiers. 

The fabric is boiled in an alkali, which forms a soap with free fatty acids (saponification). 

A kier is usually enclosed, so the solution of sodium hydroxide can be boiled under pressure, excluding oxygen which would degrade the cellulose in the fibre. 

If the appropriate reagents are used, scouring will also remove size from the fabric although desizing often precedes scouring and is considered to be a separate process known as fabric preparation. Preparation and scouring are prerequisites to most of the other finishing processes. At this stage even the most naturally white cotton fibres are yellowish, and bleaching, the next process, is required.

• BLEACHING:

           Bleaching improves whiteness by removing natural coloration and remaining trace impurities  from the cotton; the degree of bleaching necessary is determined by the required whiteness and absorbency. 

           Cotton being a vegetable fibre will be bleached using an oxidizing agent, such as dilute sodium hypochlorite or dilute hydrogen peroxide. If the fabric is to be dyed a deep shade, then lower levels of bleaching are acceptable, for example. However, for white bed sheetings and medical applications, the highest levels of whiteness and absorbency are essential^.

• MERCERISING:

          A further possibility is mercerizing during which the fabric is treated with caustic soda solution to cause swelling of the fibres. 

This results in improved lustre, strength and dye affinity. Cotton is mercerized under tension, and all alkali must be washed out before the tension is released or shrinkage will take place.

 Mercerizing can take place directly on grey cloth, or after bleaching.